I've been trading crypto since 2020, and like most people, I had no idea what cost basis methods were until tax season hit me like a truck. Here's what happened and why you should care.
My $8,400 Mistake
In 2023, I filed my taxes using FIFO because that's what CoinTracker defaulted to. I didn't even know there were other options. When my CPA saw the numbers, she asked if I'd considered HIFO. I said "WTF is HIFO?"
Turns out I could have saved about $8,400 by using HIFO instead of FIFO. The problem? I'd already filed. You can't change your cost basis method after filing unless you amend your return, which is a pain in the ass.
Here's How the Methods Actually Work (With Real Numbers)
Let me use my actual Bitcoin purchases to show you the difference:
My Bitcoin buys in 2023:
- February: 0.5 BTC at $23,000 ($11,500 total)
- August: 0.5 BTC at $28,000 ($14,000 total)
- November: 0.5 BTC at $35,000 ($17,500 total)
In December, I sold 0.5 BTC at $42,000 ($21,000 total).
FIFO result: Sold my February Bitcoin first
- Cost basis: $11,500
- Taxable gain: $9,500
- Tax owed: ~$2,300
HIFO result: Sold my November Bitcoin first
- Cost basis: $17,500
- Taxable gain: $3,500
- Tax owed: ~$850
That one trade cost me an extra $1,450 in taxes just because I didn't know about HIFO.
Why I Actually Use CoinTracker (After Trying Everything Else)
I spent about 6 hours trying to calculate this stuff manually in Excel. Holy shit, don't even think about doing this manually. With DeFi transactions, yield farming, and staking rewards, you'll lose your mind tracking cost basis manually.
CoinTracker handles the messy stuff:
- Every swap on Uniswap creates a taxable event
- Staking rewards have cost basis at the price when you received them
- LP tokens get really weird when you factor in impermanent loss
- Bridging between chains doesn't create new cost basis (it's a transfer)
The IRS Revenue Procedure 2024-28 made things more complicated starting in 2025. You now have to track cost basis separately for each exchange and wallet. CoinTracker does this automatically - doing it manually would be absolute hell.
When to Use Which Method (From Actually Using Them)
FIFO works when: You bought during bear markets and are selling during bull runs. If you bought Bitcoin at $15K in 2022 and sell at $65K now, FIFO sells your cheap coins first, which creates bigger gains but that's fine if you want to realize gains.
HIFO works when: You bought at different prices and want to minimize taxes. This is probably what you want 90% of the time unless you specifically need to realize gains for some reason.
LIFO works when: You're a recent buyer and prices have dropped. If you bought Bitcoin at $60K three months ago and it's now at $50K, LIFO sells your recent expensive coins first, creating losses you can use to offset other gains.
The Gotchas Nobody Tells You About
You can't switch mid-year. Pick your method in January and stick with it for the entire tax year. I learned this the hard way.
Your first sale of the year locks in your method. If you sell crypto in February using FIFO, you're stuck with FIFO for all of 2025.
Each exchange and wallet needs separate tracking. This is why CoinTracker is worth the money - tracking cost basis across Coinbase, Binance, and three different DeFi wallets manually is insane.
Staking rewards get cost basis at the price when received. If you receive 1 ETH staking reward when ETH is $3,000, your cost basis for that ETH is $3,000. If you later sell that ETH for $3,200, you only owe taxes on the $200 gain, not the full $3,200.
The bottom line: I wish I'd known about HIFO earlier. CoinTracker isn't cheap ($200-$1,000 per year depending on your plan), but it's cheaper than getting fucked by taxes. Learn from my expensive mistake.